Overwintering Chickens
It’s that time of year again. Chicken keeper’s everywhere are buzzing about the issues surrounding heating a chicken coop. It’s a very polarized and multifaceted topic! New chicken keepers just want to do right by their flock. After all, if you’re cold aren’t they cold too? I see so many people both experienced, new, and everywhere in between that are generalizing, minimizing, or otherwise dismissing this topic rather than fostering honest and informed conversation that we can all grow from. Hopefully by the end of this article you too will be challenged to stretch your thinking on this topic.
Let’s first discuss some of the most common recurring responses I see seasoned keepers bringing to the table. I am paraphrasing. If I happen to say something a reader has directly stated, it’s purely by chance.
You should always choose a breed appropriate for your climate.
Speaking from personal experience, I chose a breed inappropriate for my climate. Shamos and their ancestors originated from a country that very rarely gets below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. I live in a place where it can reach negative temperatures for extended periods. My priority was to choose a critically endangered breed that I truly enjoyed. When a breed needs dedicated breeders, it can be extremely detrimental to place geographical limitations on those willing to step up for that breed.
2. Never ever provide supplemental heat past week 3.
People seem to like to put this statement, or a version of this, in all CAPS. This is false depending on what you are breeding and your goals. If you are hatching a particularly slow growing heritage breed for exhibition, those birds will need hatched in the coldest months of winter to grow out. Unless they are kept in the comfort of your living room, most of these birds (particularly bantams, Mediterranean, and hard feather breeds) will need additional supplemental heat to live outdoors as young juveniles in winter.
3. An insulated coop will retain the heat given off from the birds. No additional heat is needed.
This is another blanket statement. Many poultry keepers house their birds in small groups, pairs, or even singular. Gamefowl are commonly kept alone or single mated for their safety due to their natural aggression toward other birds. While American and Old English Gamefowl are generally cold hardy, oriental game breeds may benefit from supplemental heat in certain circumstances.
Additionally, many people are working with what they have and that’s okay! There is nothing wrong with working with what you have until you know what it is you’re trying to accomplish. Breeders often utilize the interior of an old drafty barn to build breeding pens or build inexpensive structures that are predator proof but minimalistic. Wrapping uninsulated coops or pens with plastic or stacking straw bales to block floor level drafts can be economical ways to protect a flock from the cold.
4. All birds have a body temperature of 102°-107° and have survived for centuries without heat.
I think this might be my most personal cringe comment. Perhaps some people are not aware that their breed of choice, and its ancestors, spent those “centuries” in Mediterranean or tropical environments. It’s another blanket statement that is confusing for new and novice keepers. Many Serama, Ko shamo, modern game, sebright, fayoumi, malay, shamo, and others were not kept in subzero temperatures until modern times.
Now, what should you do about providing heat or not providing heat? Here are some facts and options to help you determine what is best for your individual situation.
1. Do you keep a breed that has low survivability at below freezing temperatures?
This could be seramas, sebrights, modern game, and other very small body tightly feathered birds. These birds have very specific requirements to thrive in inhospitable environments. Join a breed specific club to find out the best management practices for these types of birds in frigid climates.
2. Do you live in an area where you have prolonged periods of single digit or subzero temps or wind chills?
This is when you want to evaluate what breeds you have in your flock. Small bodied large comb birds will need more protection. Evaluate your coop to flock size ratio. Observe your flock for any signs of distress during periods of extreme cold. Can you eliminate drafts, provide deep bedding, or offer extra calories to keep the flock warm without a heat source?
3. Do you have personal needs and goals with your flock that would benefit from heat?
This could mean keeping an area above freezing so water and eggs don’t freeze in breeding pens, making a more enjoyable space to spend time with birds if 6 months of the year are freezing in your climate, or maybe you have geriatric birds in your pet flock that you want to be comfortable.
Now for some answers. What can we as keepers safely provide our flock in extremely cold weather? Jeff Mattocks at Fertrell has provided an excellent chart for calculating calorie intake based on temperature.
Just because the temperature is cold does not mean your birds need more vitamins, minerals, or protein. Chickens will instinctively eat for their calorie needs. Scratch grains, and whole corn can be an excellent source of additional calories, when fed in moderation, especially before chickens go to roost. Simply feeding additional complete feed can cause undesirable results such as increased egg size, abnormal hatch rates, and decreased chick vigor.
Providing up to 6 inches of additional bedding can reduce stress on the flock by keeping feet and legs adequately warm. The deep litter method can offer even greater value by generating its own heat as it composts in place. This method is not the same as simply never cleaning out the coop. It requires research, planning, and dedication to execute correctly.
Lastly, infrared and radiant heaters are excellent if providing a heat source is the right choice for your circumstances and/or flock. These types of heaters can help prevent frostbite, get young juveniles outside earlier in the year, and keep bantams healthy and active even in the coldest weeks of winter. Radiant heaters are designed only to heat the animal that stands near them, but not the air. This is the safest option for heat as it is not a fire hazard, nor would it drastically change the temperature in a coop should there be a power outage. Jeff Mattocks notes that radiant heaters have no effect on birds’ laying cycle or circadian rhythm. Radiant options exclusively provide heat without light.
All things considered; heat is a topic that does not have one clear answer. Social media can be a treasure trove of free and valuable information, but it requires discernment before concluding what choice is right for your circumstances. I hope I have shed some light on the various contributing factors and options available so you can make an informed decision based on your needs and the needs of your flock.
